17 December 2011

Security Alert

My home unlike most ground-level dwellings around my crib is on the 1st floor. Today there are wonderful views of the Hindu Kush to the south. From the flat expanse of the desert they jut up suddenly and in mid-December are already covered by early season snow. It is mid-morning and I am perched somewhat precariously on the north-facing foot-wide ledge at the back of the house. Shoddy workmanship means that most of the panels were left unpainted and all of them have warped leaving the wall that catches the brunt of the wind, rain and snow is vulnerable. Hopefully the patching up I have done and paint job will keep out the worst of the winter weather to come. There is a 20 foot drop down to the backyard below and so I have rigged up a secure line over the roof to my climbing harness. I didn’t expect it to get much use but it has already come in very handy as I have overseen Afghan workers who wouldn’t bother with such safety considerations unless I insisted. I certainly don’t want to have to explain to their wives and children of avoidable accident, nor have any misfortune come my way either. I announce my presence on the ledge in Dari (the local Persian language commonly know as Farsi) so as to inform my neighbours that their private domain where woman go unveiled is now visible. The father of the household heads out the gate and greets me telling me that my ‘invasion’ of his domain is not a problem. Maybe he’s impressed by my DIY work and perhaps surprised that I haven’t paid a local to do it for US$15. My focus is firmly on staying safe and getting my work finished before my hands freeze and become permanently claw-like. The local boys look up from the marble playing and are intrigued by this foreign spectacle. What follows is a friendly initial exchange after I greet them followed by increasingly rude demands for my full attention. I continue with my work. Unsatisfied, the boys try to engage me with a short volley of stones which land around me. Enough! They get the message soon enough that they have gone too far and depart the scene perhaps wondering about consequences. Ah, boys will be boys eh? Shortly afterwards my neighbour’s son comes and stands beneath the wall. He smiles up at me and makes sure I know that he wasn’t one of the culprits. We have a nice though limited conversation and initiate what I hope will become good relations with the family next door. Then boom! A bomb explodes and reverberates towards my lofty perch overlooking the roofs of Mazar. Before I see any smoke the sirens wail and my mind rushes to the scene. The incident alert text arrives from our security officer within minutes. Its contents I already know. As details of the incident become clearer, I discover that four have died in the attack.

Dawn

The day breaks crisp and clear. Condensation covers the bedroom windows which have been sealed with plastic sheeting as a kind of cheap and seasonal double glazing for winter. The early morning sun glows orange through the frosted glass. Still, the insulation isn’t so effective as to prevent the cold from penetrating my house. My breath is visible as I get up to fill the kettle from my kitchen tap and light the gas hob. These comforts I do have in the crib I call home and which I finally moved into last week. Frequent power outages and insufficient water pressure to motivate the hot water to flow from my boiler are inconvenient. However, I am fortunate that my day does not start with a walk along the rutted, muddy and frost-hardened street to pump water from the well. For many of my neighbours this is a daily task.

17 November 2011

Na na na na na...

Barfi


Another dust storm and then the weather turned very cold and the snow arrived overnight. Waking to fresh snowfall is always a joy. They have a custom here when the first snow falls called barfi - sounds pretty gross but it's really quite nice - where people give someone they know a piece of paper with a poem on it (a sharing of some sentiment) or a list of stuff they want (a favourite with kids). There are no returns! Let's just say I got well and truly "snowed" by a girl who gained far too many sugary snacks from me. The best I could do was refuse to grant items that were incorrectly spelled. A technicality but hey, my only defense as the newby here in this culture.

P.S. The crib will be my new home when the renovations are finished. Got to love a bit of DIY but hopefully this snow doesn't last too long or there will be more than barf to worry about this side of Christmas!

30 October 2011

Khakbad


Khakbad (say 'hokbod'): a duststorm like the one that blew in a week ago and again today (the photo was taken mid-morning). The conditions are a decrease in temperature - it's about 10 degrees celcius compared with yesterday which was a balmy 25 - combined with poor visibility and a fine dust in the air which covers everything, inside and out. Needless to say, my warm clothes are out including a down jacket I was hoping to save until winter and it's only late October! Guess this doesn't bode well for the quality of insulation in my house either.

22 October 2011

This Moment – A Writing Exercise

Right at this very moment I am sitting at a small, cute writing desk. The wind is blowing outside and you can hear its drafty song in the house and especially the window frames. It plays a pretty tune in the chimes that hang at the entrance but there is something melancholy in that sound. The leaves on the trees flutter as though nervous about the world beyond the garden which I overlook. Trucks and cars make their way through the pot-holed streets and the dust rises to fill the air. It is quietly filling this upstairs room and it smells dry and earthy. A thin layer of dust coats the keyboard even now after only two days in Mazar-e-Sharif where the desert sands covers the city like a prayer shawl. The sunlight is diffused by the haze and casts dancing shadows on the once white curtain. The coffee I am drinking is black. Just off that perfect temperature that is neither scalding nor easy to gulp, it sits to the right of my computer – an old Dell with a dead battery. Every time it starts the message that pops up reads: ‘Your battery needs to be replaced’. It’s been that ways for over a year now. Connected to an external power source it functions but it is not fast. Some would say it is obsolete. However, it can keep up with the steady plod of my fingers as I write and seems to remember my words well enough. ‘Need’ is a relative term. If the power cuts now I’ll only have about six minutes to finish my work and save this piece. What more can I say? I am getting to know the people in this house – a family of five – and am friends already with the other guest. Outside the compound is a land and culture I do not really know nor understand. This city is to be my home for the next two years. Home. A funny word I find. Will I ever feel like this is home? Will any place? I’m not sure I can remember what home used to feel like. Once it was a house shared with my family. Is it simply a place shared with others you love? Yes, but not quite that alone. Great love seems to be required for a man to settle. That might be home and I suppose that’s what I take home to be: a place where my heart is. Home is about belonging to place and people. My heart belongs no one nor to anywhere special. Except wherever I am. Lightly holding memories dear. Now I’m in Afghanistan.

07 October 2011

In & Out of Season

Brown leaves swirl
At Caravan’s door
Like a spectral Dervish
Making its entrance
Then settling to observe
Comings and goings
As friends meet and travel on
Paths crossing, woven together
In a timeless thread
Of silk roads to desert lands
For a season or longer
The route ancient yet clear
Like the stark branches
Silhouetted against grey sky
Steeling themselves for winter
The thrill of adventure imminent
Risk and uncertainty foreshadowed
In the face of hardship
A soul laid bare, quiet
The stillness of knowing
Turns to joy unexpected
Faith and hope enduring
Before new life erupts
With the hidden promise
Of springtime in Exmouth Market
And love in its proper season

41 Ways to Love

How will they know grace
If they see only judgement?
How will they know freedom
If they see only law?
How will they know truth
If it’s not revealed
In word and deed
Around the home?
Love as you are loved

Room with a View


04 October 2011

Longing for England

Dreaming of England
Since childhood I knew
I couldn’t simply pass through
Again and once more
Surely affection true
Coal smell and fox sighting
The Lake District, age six
At twelve, scuffling with Mackems
On a snowy boat ramp
Cementing my allegiance
To the team on the Tyne
Now the train slips through fields of green
In this country longed for
A cottage, a view
And hope endures
But not alone
Company in the arms of another
Far from the madding crowds
And rail tracks too
The landscape of Hardy’s time
Summer days declaring
“Life is good!”
Now as autumn leaves turn
Towards winter’s long shadow
I cast my own
Adventure in Afghanistan beckons
Calling to me: “Come, seek, find”
As I look eastwards
All that awaits I embrace
My prayer answered at thirty-seven
It was a fine season in Blighty
But for you my love
A fine season indeed