29 May 2016

Lion 'Craft-Washes' Brewer


"Today a Japanese lion escaped from a Wellington industrial estate and threw a local brewer into the Hutt River. The man is said to be unhurt but this dalliance with a commercial beast may result in drowning despite assurances given through bared fangs."

Yes, this just in from our intrepid beer correspondent in Wellington. Lion Group owned by the Japanese brewing giant Kirin has purchased Upper Hutt brewery Panhead Custom Ales for an undisclosed sum. The owner and founder Mike Neilson cited his desire to profit from the deal by selling to the big industrial brewer rather than letting one of his craft beer competitors be bought instead. This will enable him to focus on brewing and not be caught up in other aspects of the business like logistics, accountancy and engineering. Allegedly all roles at the brewery will stay the same under the guidance and leadership of the new general manager. How long authentic production techniques and high quality will be retained under new ownership remains to be seen. Kirin also bought Mac's a few years back and now it is no longer a beer produced in its home town of Nelson but at beer factories in Auckland and Christchurch. When  this type of 'craft-washing' happens things change. Invariably quality goes down, commodification goes up and craft beer turns sour and becomes 'Kraft Beer' (copyright the author). This phenomenon will leave a bad taste in the mouths of the faithful who once cheered Panhead's fantastic APA as a welcome alternative to the poor piss promulgated by Lion's other brands. Now this lion has another cub in its pride. Panhead is now Pantail. Without independence we can only hope that this kraft brewery remains a good beer producer. I understand Neilson's decision however bad it seems. This is called selling out and craft beer enthusiasts will mourn the loss of one of New Zealand's best independent breweries.

'Craft Beer' the sign at the supermarket in Kapiti read (above) and on the shelf inside stood a can of Heineken. Says it all. The good news is that Panhead will be available on the shelf next to it thus sparing you the indignity and nasty flavour of that Dutch lager whose owner incidentally controls another lion of NZ beer, Dominion Breweries who will be looking to add to their pride too. Other craft brewers will be rubbing their hands will greed-fueled glee. Please don't let it be Garage Project prayed the faithful.

Postscript: And their prayers were answered. Garage Project was courted by Lion but decided it wasn't the way they wanted to go.  

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